Fascia, Soffit & Guttering

Replacement Fascias, Soffits & Guttering — Done Once, Properly

Replacement fascias, soffits, bargeboards and guttering in low-maintenance Epwin Swish cellular uPVC — stripped back to the rafters and fitted properly, with over-fascia ventilation and eaves protection as standard. Scaffolding, waste removal and our 10-year guarantee included.

Made in Britain BBA Certified Roofline 10-Year Guarantee Fitted Across Suffolk & Essex
84%
Recycled Content in Swish Gutters
60yr+
Cellular uPVC Service Life
1–4
Days on Site
10yr
Guarantee

The Bit of Your House You Never Look At

You've probably noticed something. A green streak running down the wall. A gutter that overflows in the same spot every single time it rains. Boards that have gone grey and soft and won't hold paint any more. Or you've had a quote for new windows and realised the roofline above them is letting the whole house down. That's what brings most people to this page — and it's usually right. Roofline does a real job up there: the fascia carries your guttering and closes off the ends of your roof timbers, the soffit seals the underside and lets the roof breathe, and the gutter and downpipes take several thousand litres of Suffolk rain a year somewhere other than down your walls. When it stops working it doesn't announce itself. It just quietly soaks into things.

We replace roofline in Epwin's Swish cellular uPVC — a British system with a service life of 60 years or more that never needs painting, won't rot, and doesn't yellow like the cheap boards from the 1990s that we now spend half our time taking off. On a full replacement, the old boards come off back to the rafter ends and new Swish Jumbo fascias are fixed directly to the rafters — strong enough to carry the guttering and take the weight of the bottom row of tiles, which is the whole point of a fascia and the thing a cheap job gets wrong.

The rainwater system is Swish too, and it's an unusual one: roughly 84% of the gutter and pipe by weight is recycled PVC, largely reclaimed from old windows and gutters stripped off other buildings. Choose your fascia profile (square, ogee or bullnose), your gutter (half-round, square, ogee or deep flow) and your colour — white, foiled woodgrains, black or anthracite grey to pick up your windows. Over-fascia ventilation, eaves protection and gutter guard are fitted as standard, not sold to you afterwards.

It's all fitted by our own team from our Martlesham base, on houses across Kesgrave, Ipswich, Woodbridge, Felixstowe and throughout Suffolk and Essex — and it's the single cheapest thing you can do to make a tired house look cared for.

Every job starts with a free, no-obligation survey and quotation, and is protected by our 10-year guarantee.

What's Actually Up There

Almost nobody knows which board is which — and it matters, because you can't judge a quote for something you can't name. Here's the whole roofline in plain English, and the choices you'll be asked to make on each part.

Fascia

The upright board running along the edge of your roof, capping the ends of the rafters. It carries the entire weight of your guttering, and on most houses the bottom row of roof tiles rests on it too. It's the board people mean when they say "roofline" — and the one that has to be strong, not just tidy.

  • Profiles & types
  • Square — clean, flat and modern. The most common choice.
  • Ogee — a decorative moulded profile that suits period and traditional homes.
  • Bullnose — a softly rounded edge, gentler than square.
  • Jumbo — a heavier-duty board fixed straight to the rafters. What we fit on full replacements.
  • Cappit — a slimmer capping board fitted over sound existing timber.

Soffit

The horizontal board tucked in underneath the fascia, bridging the gap back to your wall. It's the one you actually see when you look up from the pavement. It seals the underside of the eaves against weather, birds and wasps — and on many houses it's where the roof breathes.

  • Profiles & types
  • Flat soffit — plain and unfussy, the standard choice.
  • Vented (Polo) soffit — slotted to ventilate the roof void.
  • Hollow / cladding soffit — a tongue-and-groove look, popular on porches and deeper eaves.
  • Fluted — decorative grooved board (unvented).

Bargeboard

The angled boards running up the slope of a gable end. Same job as a fascia, but on a pitch and usually without a gutter on it. They're the most exposed boards on the house, which is why they're very often the first thing to go — if anything's rotten, start looking here.

  • Profiles & types
  • Matched to your fascia — square, ogee or bullnose, so the house reads as one piece.
  • Decorative — dentil rails, spires, finials and gallows brackets for period properties.
  • With cladding — gable and dormer cheeks finished to match.

Guttering & Downpipes

The channels along the fascia and the pipes down the wall, taking rain to the drain. Worth knowing: most overflowing gutters aren't badly fitted, they're simply too small for the roof above them — so the profile you choose is a performance decision, not just a look.

  • Profiles & types
  • Half-round — the traditional default, suits most houses.
  • Square — contemporary lines, popular with anthracite frames.
  • Ogee — decorative face, higher capacity. Good on larger homes.
  • Deep flow — high capacity, for big roof areas or steep pitches that shed water fast.
Over-Fascia VentilationLets the roof void breathe, hidden behind the gutter so the soffit stays plain. Prevents condensation and rot. Fitted as standard.
Eaves ProtectionA tray guiding water off the roof felt into the gutter rather than behind it. Skipped surprisingly often. Not by us.
Bird & Gutter GuardsComb guards close the gap at the tile line; gutter guard keeps moss and leaves out. Both included where needed.

Choose Your Approach

There's really only one decision here, and it's the one every roofline quote hinges on: do the old boards come off, or does new uPVC go over the top? The answer depends entirely on what your timber is like — which is what the survey is for.

Our Recommended Option

Full Replacement

Everything comes off, back to bare rafter ends. We inspect what's underneath in daylight, make good anything that needs it, then fit new Swish Jumbo boards fixed straight to the rafters. Nothing hidden, nothing guessed at, and a roofline that genuinely will not move.

MethodStripped to rafter ends; Jumbo boards fixed to rafters
StrengthCarries the gutter and the bottom row of tiles
VentilationOver-fascia vents as standard; soffit stays plain
TimberInspected and made good before boards go on
IncludedEaves protection, gutter guard, bird guards
Life60+ years, no painting, fully recyclable
In plain English: done once, done properly, and you find out what's actually up there instead of sealing it in and hoping.
Our Budget-Friendly Option

Cap-Over — Where the Timber Is Sound

New uPVC capping fitted over your existing timber, with a new rainwater system on top. Faster, tidier and around 20–30% cheaper — and a perfectly sensible answer if the timber underneath is dry and solid. We check before we offer it, and we'll say no if the answer's no.

MethoduPVC capping over existing fascia & soffit
Suitable whenTimber is dry, sound and structurally intact
VentilationCircular vents through both boards; over-fascia vents often not possible
GutteringNew Swish rainwater system fitted regardless
SavingTypically 20–30% against full replacement
AppearanceSame finished look from the ground
In plain English: the sensible-money option when the timber's fine — and a false economy when it isn't. Swish's own advice is to replace unless you're certain the timber is good.

How to Tell If Yours Has Had It

Roofline never fails dramatically. It just gets slowly worse until something inside the house goes wrong and nobody connects the two. Have a look up from the garden on the next wet day — most of these you can spot from the ground with a cup of tea in your hand:

  • Green or black streaks running down the wall underneath the gutter, or a patch of wall that's always damp.
  • The gutter overflows in the same spot every time it rains, or drips at a joint. Often it's sagged because the fascia behind it has softened.
  • Flaking paint, or timber that gives when you press it. Soft, spongy board is rot, and paint won't fix it.
  • A fascia that's bowing or sagging so the gutter line no longer runs true along the roof edge.
  • Birds or wasps getting into the roof space through gaps at the soffit. If starlings have found a way in, so has the weather.
  • Plants growing in the gutter, or damp patches on upstairs ceilings near the external walls.
  • uPVC that's gone brittle or yellow. Early-generation boards from the 90s are reaching end of life — a lot of what we take off now is plastic, not timber.

Two things worth knowing before you take a quote: if a price looks unusually low, check whether scaffolding is in it — on a two-storey house it's a legal requirement, not an optional extra, and it's the most commonly omitted line on a roofline quote. And if your house pre-dates the mid-1980s, the soffits may be asbestos cement. They must be sampled before anyone disturbs them. Be wary of anyone who offers to just rip them off.

Lead Times

Survey to Installation: 8–10 Weeks on Average

Your boards, trims and rainwater goods are all made to your measurements, profile and colour, so our standard timeline from survey to installation averages 8 to 10 weeks. On site it's quick: typically 1–2 days for a terrace or bungalow, 2–3 days for a semi and 3–4 days for a detached house, plus scaffold up and down.

Please note: This is an estimated indication. If you require your roofline sooner, please discuss this with us during your survey—we will always try to accommodate if possible. Timelines can occasionally extend for complex rooflines, bespoke colour matches, or where asbestos sampling or removal is required.

Fascia, Soffit & Guttering Price Guide

The prices below are honest, indicative ranges for a full replacement of fascias, soffits, bargeboards and guttering in white Swish uPVC — including scaffolding, over-fascia ventilation, eaves protection, gutter guard, waste removal and installation. No hidden extras. A cap-over on sound timber typically comes in 20–30% lower; foiled woodgrain, black and anthracite finishes add roughly 15–25%.

Most roofline companies quote per linear metre, which makes comparing quotes harder than it should be. For reference, ours works out at roughly £55–£90 per linear metre of fascia and soffit fitted, with downpipes and fittings included — but we'll always give you a single fixed price for the whole job, itemised, so you can see exactly what you're buying.

Property Type Typical Roofline Run Estimated Price Range
Terraced House Approx. 20–25m £1,800 – £2,900
Bungalow or Chalet Approx. 30–40m £1,900 – £3,200
3-Bed Semi-Detached (Most Popular) Approx. 30–45m £2,400 – £4,200
Detached House Approx. 45–70m+ £3,800 – £7,500

Customisation & Upgrades

  • Colours & Finishes: White as standard, or foiled woodgrains — Mahogany, Light Oak, Rosewood — plus Black and Anthracite Grey to pick up your windows. Matching trims, corners and joints throughout.
  • Fascia & Gutter Profiles: Square, ogee or bullnose fascia; half-round, square, ogee or deep flow guttering for roofs that shed a lot of water.
  • Decorative Roofline: Spires, finials, dentil rails and gallows brackets — the details that make a period property look right rather than merely tidy.
  • Cladding & Window Boards: Gable-end and dormer cladding, or uPVC window boards and trims. Far cheaper done while the scaffold is already up.
Worth knowing: if you're planning new windows or a conservatory too, mention it at the survey. Doing the roofline in the same visit means one lot of access and one lot of labour — and it means we can match the frames and the boards properly rather than guessing at a colour two years apart.

Recent Roofline Installations

Low-maintenance uPVC fascia, soffit and guttering replacements completed across Suffolk.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a fascia board, and what does a soffit do?
The fascia is the upright board running along the edge of your roof, capping the ends of the rafters. It carries the entire weight of your guttering, and on most houses the bottom row of roof tiles rests on it too — so it has to be strong, not just tidy. It's the board people mean when they say "roofline". The soffit is the horizontal board tucked underneath the fascia, bridging the gap back to your wall — the one you actually see when you look up from the pavement. It seals the underside of the eaves against weather, birds and wasps, and on many houses it's where the roof breathes, via slots or vents that let air into the roof void. The third board is the bargeboard: same job as a fascia but running up the slope of a gable end, usually without a gutter on it. Bargeboards are the most exposed boards on the house and are very often the first thing to rot.
What are the different types of fascia and soffit board?
Fascias come in three main profiles: square, which is flat, clean and the most common choice; ogee, a decorative moulded profile that suits period and traditional homes; and bullnose, which has a softly rounded edge. Beyond the profile, the important distinction is the board itself. A Jumbo fascia is a heavier-duty board fixed directly to the rafter ends and is what should be used on a full replacement, because it's strong enough to carry the guttering and the bottom row of tiles. A Cappit board is a slimmer capping board fitted over existing timber that has been left in place. Soffits come as flat boards, either plain or vented; vented (Polo) boards are slotted to ventilate the roof void; hollow or cladding soffits give a tongue-and-groove look that suits porches and deeper eaves; and fluted boards are a decorative grooved option. Which combination is right depends on your house and, crucially, on the condition of the timber underneath.
Which style of guttering should I choose?
There are four common profiles, and the choice is a performance decision as much as an aesthetic one — most overflowing gutters aren't badly fitted, they're simply too small for the roof above them. Half-round is the traditional default and suits most houses. Square gives contemporary lines and works particularly well alongside anthracite window frames. Ogee has a decorative face and a higher capacity, which makes it a good fit for larger homes. Deep flow is the high-capacity option, designed for big roof areas or steep pitches that shed water quickly. If your existing gutter overflows in the same place every time it rains, we'd look at capacity before anything else. We'll recommend a profile based on your roof area and pitch at the survey, and you choose the colour from there.
How do I know if my fascias and soffits need replacing?
Your roofline usually tells you long before it fails. Look for green or black streaks running down the wall beneath the gutter, a gutter that overflows in the same spot every time it rains, flaking paint, boards that feel soft or spongy if you press them, a fascia that has started to bow or sag so the gutter no longer runs true, birds or wasps getting into the roof space through gaps in the soffit, or damp patches appearing on upstairs ceilings near the external walls. Plants growing in the gutter are a giveaway too. And if your roofline is already uPVC but went on in the 1990s, it may simply have reached the end of its life — early boards go brittle, yellow and cracked. None of this is urgent in the way a leaking roof is urgent, but roofline problems are cumulative: water that isn't being carried away is soaking into something.
Should I have my roofline capped over or fully replaced?
Capping means fitting new uPVC over your existing timber rather than taking it off. It's cheaper, typically saving 20 to 30%, and it's perfectly legitimate — but only where the timber underneath is dry, sound and structurally intact. Swish, who manufacture the system we fit, put it plainly in their own guidance: they recommend complete replacement unless you are certain the underlying timbers are in good condition. That's the whole argument. Cap over rot and you've sealed the damp in behind a board you can no longer inspect, and it will keep going quietly for years. There's a practical catch as well — over-fascia ventilators often can't be fitted to a capped fascia, so ventilation has to be handled differently. We check the timber at survey and tell you honestly which camp you're in. If it's sound, we're happy to cap it and save you the money.
Do I have to replace the guttering at the same time?
You don't have to, but it's almost always the sensible thing to do. The gutter has to come off to get at the fascia anyway, the scaffold is already up and the team is already there — so the extra cost of new guttering is mostly just the material. Do it separately in two years' time and you'll pay for the access twice. We fit the Swish rainwater system, which is unusual in that roughly 84% of the gutter and pipe by weight is recycled PVC, largely from old windows and gutters taken off other buildings. You choose the profile: half-round, square, ogee or deep flow if your roof sheds a lot of water.
Do I need scaffolding, and is it included in the price?
On a two-storey house, yes — working at height along a roofline is not a ladder job, and proper edge protection is a legal requirement rather than a preference. Scaffolding is included in the prices quoted on this page, which is worth checking against other quotes because it's frequently left out and it's a significant cost. Bungalows and single-storey work can often be done safely from a tower, which is one reason they're cheaper. If access is awkward — a conservatory in the way, a slope, a narrow side passage or overhead cables — we'll spot it at survey and price it then, not halfway through the job.
Do I need planning permission or building regulations approval for new fascias and soffits?
For the overwhelming majority of homes, no on both counts — replacing your roofline is maintenance, not building work, and needs no application. Two things are worth knowing though. First, listed buildings and conservation areas are different, and parts of Suffolk are full of both: Woodbridge, Framlingham, Lavenham and Aldeburgh among others. Some conservation areas have restrictions that rule out uPVC or require a like-for-like timber replacement. We'll flag it at survey if we think it applies to you. Second, while no approval is needed, Building Regulations do require your roof void to be ventilated to prevent condensation and rot — and the eaves are exactly where that ventilation happens. It's easy to get wrong and easy to quietly skip. We fit over-fascia ventilation or vented soffit as standard on every full replacement.
My soffits might be asbestos — what happens then?
It's a fair question and more common than people expect: some housing built before the mid-1980s has asbestos cement soffits. If we think yours might, we will not touch them until they've been sampled and confirmed one way or the other. If they are asbestos, removal has to be carried out and disposed of in line with the regulations, which adds cost and time — but it's not a disaster and it's not a reason to leave them. What it is a reason for is caution about anyone offering to rip them out cheaply on the same day. We'd rather have the awkward conversation at survey than the expensive one afterwards.
How long does the work take?
Our lead time from survey to installation is 8 to 10 weeks, because your boards, trims and rainwater goods are made to your measurements and colour. The work itself is quick: a terraced house or bungalow is typically 1 to 2 days, a semi-detached 2 to 3 days, and a detached house 3 to 4 days, plus scaffold up and down. Complex rooflines — multiple gables, dormers, bay windows or cast iron gutters to remove — can add a day or two, and we'd tell you that at the quote rather than on the morning we arrive.
What areas do you fit fascias, soffits and guttering in?
We are based in Martlesham and fit across all surrounding areas including Kesgrave, Ipswich, Woodbridge, Felixstowe, Martlesham Heath, Rushmere St Andrew, and throughout Suffolk and Essex. If you are unsure whether we cover your area, call 01473 614 444.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Every roofline installation comes with our comprehensive 10-year installation guarantee covering the boards, the rainwater system and our workmanship, backed by Epwin's own product warranties on the Swish range. Cellular uPVC is a genuinely long-life material — Swish quote a service life of 60 years or more, and it's fully recyclable at the end of it. One honest note: roofline work isn't covered by FENSA, which only certifies windows and doors, so there's no certificate to issue here and any company telling you otherwise is confusing the two. We are FENSA-registered for the glazing side of our business.

What Our Roofline Customers Say

Reviews related to our fascia, soffit & guttering work

Barbara L. • Kesgrave★★★★★

My husband painted those boards every four years for thirty years. That's done with now. Scaffold up Monday, gone by Wednesday, and the front of the house looks ten years younger.

Steve H. • Woodbridge★★★★★

Another firm quoted to cap over. Homestyle got up there, showed me photos of rot along the back rafters and explained why capping would have buried it. Cost more, absolutely the right call.

Joan & Derek F. • Ipswich★★★★★

The gutter had overflowed onto the same bit of wall for years and we'd just accepted it. Turns out the fascia had sagged. All sorted, wall's drying out, and they cleaned up so well you'd never know.

Martin K. • Felixstowe★★★★★

Anthracite boards to match the new windows and it's transformed the place. Quote was itemised, scaffolding was in it, and the final invoice matched the quote to the penny.

Roofline Looking Tired? Let's Chat.

We'll answer all your questions and take you through the next steps in a relaxed, no sales pressure environment — and your survey and quotation are always free.